Recognizable by their bowler hats, long black braids and layered skirts in vibrant colors, Cholitas have become an emblematic figure of La Paz and Bolivian identity. These women of Aymara origin, long marginalized, now occupy a visible place in the markets, streets and even on the wrestling rings of El Alto.

Why meet the Cholitas in La Paz

La Paz is home to a large community of Cholitas, heirs to the Aymara tradition that came from the Altiplano. Crossing paths with them in the markets, watching a female Lucha Libre match or observing their coded dress offers insight into part of Bolivian social history, marked by Spanish colonization, indigenous resistance and a more recent cultural revaluation.

Contrary to what the name might suggest, there is no official "Cholitas market": rather, they are several markets and neighborhoods in La Paz and El Alto where these women run businesses, selling textiles, medicinal herbs or everyday products.

History and dress of the Cholitas

A dress inherited from colonization

The term "Chola" was introduced during the era of the Conquistadors to disparagingly describe indigenous American women. The dress itself was imposed by Spanish colonizers to identify and "civilize" indigenous populations. Over the centuries, this constrained garment transformed into a claimed identity marker.

The traditional costume consists of several precise elements:

• The Pollera, a full skirt worn with at least seven petticoats, which gives the silhouette its characteristic volume.
• The Ahuayo, a lace shawl, sometimes replaced by a llama wool wrap when Altiplano cold sets in.
• Two long braids connected by the Tula, an ornament that extends the hair.
• The famous bowler hat, adopted in 1920.

The bowler hat anecdote

The bowler hat was imported by Europeans working on the Bolivian railway and was first worn by workers. According to La Paz oral tradition, a local hat maker supposedly received an order of hats that were too small for men. To clear his stock, he allegedly presented them to women as the "latest European fashion". Whether true or embellished, this story is passed down locally and explains the lasting adoption of the headwear by Cholitas.

From colonial contempt to cultural recognition

Long victims of discrimination, Cholitas were denied access to many public spaces, including some universities. The 2006 election of Evo Morales, of Aymara origin and son of a Chola, marked a symbolic and political turning point. The status of Cholitas was upgraded, although social and racial inequalities remain documented in Bolivia.

What to see and where to meet the Cholitas

La Paz markets

Several markets offer the chance to observe the daily life of Cholita vendors:

• The Mercado de las Brujas (Witches Market), where you'll find herbs, amulets and items linked to Andean beliefs.
• The Mercado Rodríguez, a bustling food market downtown, frequented by locals.
• The Mercado Lanza, near San Francisco square, convenient for a first immersion.

Female Lucha Libre wrestling in El Alto

Every Sunday in the El Alto neighborhood on the outskirts of La Paz, Cholitas step into the ring for Lucha Libre matches. These encounters, blending choreography, acrobatics and caricatured characters, carry symbolic weight: they have become a sign of the fight against violence toward Bolivian women. Before each match, wrestlers parade in traditional dress to rally the crowd.

Practical information

• When to go: markets are active throughout the week, quieter on Sundays. Lucha Libre takes place Sunday afternoons in El Alto.
• Admission: free entry to markets. Lucha Libre tickets are moderately priced, often with a separate rate for foreign visitors (ringside seats).
• Duration: allow 1 to 2 hours to explore a market, around 2 hours for a Lucha Libre show.
• Photography: always ask permission before photographing a Cholita; many decline or expect a small fee.

How to get there

Markets in downtown La Paz are accessible on foot from San Francisco square. To reach El Alto and Lucha Libre, the easiest option is to take the urban cable car (Mi Teleférico), particularly the red or yellow line, which connects La Paz to the El Alto plateau in about ten minutes with spectacular views of the city. Collective minibuses and taxis also serve this route. For the show, many local agencies offer round-trip transfers with tickets included, a convenient option late in the day.

Nearby attractions

The La Paz region lends itself to several complementary excursions:

• The Valley of the Moon, an erosion landscape a few kilometers from downtown.
• The Cerro Rico mines in Potosí, another powerful symbol of Bolivian colonial history.
• The Chapare Valley, for a contrast with the tropical landscapes of the yungas.

To incorporate meeting Cholitas into a complete itinerary, explore our Bolivia trips and build a route around La Paz, the Altiplano and the country's major cultural landmarks.