Orinoca is a small town on the Bolivian Altiplano in the western part of the country. It is located 185 km south of Oruro, the capital of the department of the same name. Like Quime, Orinoca remains an off-the-radar destination for tourists. Yet the town could delight adventurers seeking unique and unconventional sites. Here stands the birthplace of former Bolivian president Evo Morales. About 20 km from the town lies the former salt lake Poopó, which dried up in 2015. This body of water lost 99% of its surface due to human activity and climate change.

History

During the colonial period and into the early twentieth century, Orinoca was a stop for llama herders' caravans, transporting silver from the mines of Potosí to the ports. In 1959, Juan Evo Morales Ayma, Bolivia's first indigenous president, who led the country between 2006 and 2019, was born here. He spent his life there until age 15.

Orinoca gained national prominence in 2017, when Morales established the Museum of Democratic and Cultural Revolution, dedicated to the country's political and social history. The modern building, however, stands in sharp contrast to the town's traditional adobe architecture and the poverty of its inhabitants.

Housing an entire floor dedicated to the governments of Orinoca's native son, the museum nonetheless sparked controversy. Following Morales's resignation in 2019, the establishment closed in 2020. The reasons cited were the "high cost" of its upkeep and the low number of visitors.

The Museum of Democratic and Cultural Revolution was, for a time, one of Bolivia's largest. Its construction cost 7 million dollars.

What to See in Orinoca?

Evo Morales's House

The modest birthplace of Evo Morales is located in the Isallawi neighborhood. This traditional adobe house retains its original thatched roof and two main rooms. The first served as the family's bedroom, while the second functioned as the kitchen.

Lake Poopó

Although Lake Poopó has virtually vanished, it remains a fascinating site to explore, particularly for travelers curious about the impact of environmental change. This former salt lake was once Bolivia's second-largest body of water after Lake Titicaca and harbored rich biodiversity, including flamingos and other Andean birds.

The site reveals a striking landscape marked by salt flats and persistent wetlands that still attract some animal species. Visitors can traverse the lake's remnants, observe traces of the former shoreline, and learn more about the effects of climate and human activity on this fragile ecosystem.

Photography enthusiasts will appreciate the color contrasts between the salt-covered ground, clear sky, and mountains as a backdrop. For a more enriching visit, it is advisable to inquire with Orinoca's residents, who readily share their memories of this vanished lake and its cultural significance. Remember to bring water and clothing suited to the Altiplano's climatic conditions.

Practical Information

When to Visit?

The best time to visit Orinoca is during the dry season, from May to October, when roads are more passable and the climate more agreeable. Temperatures can be cool, especially at night. Avoid the rainy season (November to March), as unpaved roads become difficult to access due to mud and flooding.

To reach Orinoca, you must take roads that are largely unpaved. From Oruro, follow Route 12, an unasphalt track passing through Toledo for 62 km to Villa Copacabana. From there, a rural road leads south, crossing several villages, including Laca Laca Quita Quita, Santiago de Andamarca, and Eduardo Avaroa, before reaching Orinoca.

From the south, access to Orinoca is simpler thanks to a paved road passing through Pampa Aullagas and the Sanctuary of Quillacas. Once in Orinoca, the road continues southwest toward Pampa Aullagas, at the southern edge of Lake Poopó.