High altitude in the heart of the Bolivian Altiplano, a historic mine, an old town inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage list—Potosí certainly stands out during your stay in Bolivia. Here's an overview.

History

The history of Potosí, or "thunder" in Quechua, begins just before the Spanish arrival, when Inca emperor Huayna Cápac, through his vassals, learned of Sumac Orcko (or Cerro Rico) and its silver deposits. But when the Incas attempted to begin ore extraction, an explosion occurred. It was interpreted as a sign from the gods forbidding exploitation of a site reserved "for those who would come later." The conquistadors deliberately exploited this superstition to legitimize their settlement and mining work within the mountain. They officially founded the city of Potosí on April 1, 1545.

¡ Vale un Potosí !

The Cerro Rico mine was one of the most important sources of wealth for the Spanish Empire. From this came the expression "¡ Vale un Potosí !", popularized by Don Quixote de la Mancha, which designates something of great value in Spain. More than half of the total amount of silver extracted worldwide is believed to have been produced in Potosí in the second half of the 16th century, benefiting the Spanish crown, while indigenous populations reaped no rewards.

Potosí Today

4,070 m. That's the altitude at which Potosí sits, at the foot of Cerro Rico mountain, making it one of the highest cities on the planet. Setting aside the striking panoramas over the Bolivian Altiplano peaks, tourist attractions abound within. Yet it remains today merely a stopover on the route to the capital, Sucre.

Potosí, a Small World to Discover

Once past the city entrance perched above, you stroll through its pedestrian lanes lined with colonial homes in warm hues, delighting in photographs before the portal carved from rock of the San Francisco Church. You appreciate the colonial frescoes inside the towers, before enjoying views of the city from their summit. Then it's on to the Torre de la Compania, erected in the 18th century, before which you marvel at the blend of traditional Bolivian and Spanish architectures—the San Lorenzo Church shows another example of mixed-race art in Potosí with its façade adorned with indigenous sun and moon deities. You then head to the local market to taste an almuerzo, after which you're ready to dive into the city's mining history.

In the Footsteps of Potosí's Miners

You learn more about Potosí and Bolivia by visiting the Casa de la Moneda (Royal Mint). The local mining industry evolved within this colonial building dating from 1753, from hand-hammered silver coins to electrical use, passing through the steam engine. The museum offers guided tours through its numerous rooms.

Inside the Cerro Rico mine, you'll need to approach with humility. Thousands of people, including children as young as 8, spend their days there attempting to extract ore. You might bring some gifts for them: cigarettes, coca leaves, etc. The visit is typically accompanied by a former miner. With protective gear donned and your headlamp lit, you progress through the entrails of Cerro Rico via dark corridors. The wooden supports seem fragile, yet somehow bear the mountain's weight. You can hear miners shouting instructions before the boom of dynamite. The first stop is the small altar of El Tio, the protective deity of miners. Your guide then speaks of the living conditions of workers who persist in extraction despite the looming threat. Indeed, with ceaseless and uncontrolled mining activities over the years, Cerro Rico risks collapse. The mountain was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in danger in 2014.

Climate

Potosí experiences a dry climate for most of the year. 85% of annual precipitation, estimated at 350 mm, occurs between December and March, during the austral summer. Storms often happen early in the evening, though rain may fall all day at certain times. Summer temperatures hover around 22°C during the day and 12°C at night. During winter, temperatures can drop below 0°C.

Due to its small size and lack of technical facilities, Capitán Nicolás Rojas Airport, situated 6 km northeast of Potosí, sees little traffic. Most international and domestic flights land in Sucre. From Bolivia's capital, you can then travel overland to Potosí. The journey (150 km) takes roughly three hours. The trip from La Paz to Potosí (500 km) takes 8 to 10 hours. From Oruro, 320 km away, count on approximately 6 hours of driving.

There are three comfort levels for buses: the cheap and basic "standard," the "Semicama" which is more spacious and has air conditioning, and the "cama" whose seats allow you to practically recline during long journeys. Potosí's Bus Terminal is located north of the city, near the Tomas Frias University campus.

Micros provide much of public transport in Potosí. Companies display varied colors to differentiate themselves. Each route is assigned a number or letter so users can navigate easily. If you prefer taxis, two types exist: standard vehicles in colors that vary by company, and "radios taxis" considered more reliable.