Alone in the middle of nowhere. In an isolated high-altitude setting, roughly 240 km south-west of Potosi in Bolivie, Uyuni nestles defiantly amid the desolate landscape that envelops it. For a Bolivian, its name evokes the "harto frío" – a reference to its disadvantaged position in the cold, windswept zone of the Altiplano, at 3,665 meters above sea level. Glacial conditions that nonetheless don't prevent the town from welcoming visitors. Hundreds of travelers pass through nearly every week to explore the Uyuni Salt Flats.

History

Bolivian president Aniceto Arce founded Uyuni as a trading post in 1890. It served as a vital railroad junction for transporting minerals from Huanchaca to Pacific Ocean ports. The railways were constructed under the direction of British engineers who arrived in the region toward the late 19th century. Construction ran from 1888 to 1892. As mining resources were depleted, the local economy collapsed in the 1940s. Locomotives were gradually abandoned, forming what is now known as the Uyuni Train Cemetery.

Uyuni Today

In the small town that grew as a hub of Bolivian railroad transport—a status that remains relevant today—tourism now lies at the heart of daily activities. Uyuni, which could have faded into obscurity between the road to La Paz and Salta in Argentina, has found its place in Bolivia travel guides as an essential stop on the Uyuni Salt Salar circuit, the world's largest salt marsh.

The Bolivian Far West

The backpacker bars lining its main street, the train cemetery, and the surrounding desert give Uyuni a distinctly Far West atmosphere. Houses here are weathered by time, some brightly painted, others muted. Few tall buildings. But who would complain, when this means you can catch glimpses of the Andes mountain range on the horizon. At street corners, women with copper-toned skin, dressed in flowing multicolored robes and bowler hats, observe passersby and stray dogs. Some tend makeshift stalls selling fresh juices and homemade ice cream. Time seems to have stopped in Uyuni since the decline of mining.

Three kilometers from the town center, the train cemetery is an open-air museum that recalls the city's turbulent railway past. You'll find a dozen rusted hulks dating from the 19th century, perfect backdrops for a historic photo during your Bolivia journey. Don't miss the Southern Andes Archaeological and Anthropological Museum either, which holds an impressive collection of fossils, mummies, textiles, and ceramics. The Huanchaca silver mine lies to the northeast of town.

Not Much Else, Just Kick Back…

Aside from its peaceful calm and old locomotives, Uyuni has little to offer—just enough to refresh weary travelers. Cafés and bars cluster around Plaza Arce. Restaurants attempt to surprise visitors with international specialties like Mexican, Arab, and Italian cuisine. Local pizzas have won enthusiastic approval from tourists, boasting creative toppings (llama, spicy pesto, and more) and featuring a nice salad bar. Nightlife venues are sparse, but the few places open after dark buzz with backpacker energy: folk music, drinking games, travel tales, and more.

Heading Into the Uyuni Salt Desert

Most come to this remote corner of Bolivie to explore the Uyuni Salar. This salt desert, covering an area of more than 10,000 km²—the largest expanse of salt on the planet—resulted from the drying of a prehistoric body of water. An ephemeral island dotted with cacti, Incahuasi or the "House of the Inca," sits amid the dried lake bed, appearing only during the brief wet seasons. On the route to the Salar, a 20-minute drive from Uyuni, stop by the Colchani salt factory.

Uyuni also serves as a starting point for visiting the Colorado and Green lagoons, havens for vicuñas and flamingos at the edges of Bolivie and Chile. A branch of the national railway on the north-south axis connects to the Pacific Ocean southwest, maintaining the link to Antofagasta port in Chile.

Climate

Uyuni sits in an arid climate zone where annual rainfall rarely exceeds 190 mm. Eighty-five percent of precipitation falls between December and March during the southern summer, usually as late-afternoon thunderstorms. Rainwater covering the salt marshes creates a stunning mirror effect. The southern winter at Uyuni runs from May to October. Snow may fall during this period at times, but only briefly and in small amounts. Temperatures are relatively mild during the day in spring. At night, however—regardless of season—temperatures can plummet quickly.

Despite its economic decline, Uyuni remains an important transportation hub in Bolivia. It sits at the crossroads of four major routes, respectively from La Paz, Potosi, Calama in Chile, and Villazón at the Argentine border. The city has an airport named Joya Andina, with service limited to La Paz and Sucre.

For tourists, the bus remains the recommended transportation option for reaching Uyuni. The journey from La Paz, 540 km away, takes just under 10 hours. From Potosi, the 240 km trip takes 6 hours. From Oruro, located 320 km away, allow 8 hours.

Uyuni is a small town easily explored on foot.

What to Do?

• Wander through peaceful streets meeting locals
• Taste pizzas topped with llama meat
• Discover the abandoned locomotives at the train cemetery
• Explore the Uyuni Salar
• Hike to the Huanchaca silver mine, and more