Vertical spirit in the Royal Cordillera

In the morning, drive in a private vehicle to reach the village of Santiago de Okola located in a magnificent bay dominated by the Sleeping Dragon hill, on the shores of the Lake Titicaca. Welcome by the community with whom we share lunch.

Early in the afternoon, we start our hike to Dragon Dormido with a climb to the Tunupa cave. Then we continue along a slightly steeper path to the summit which reaches 4095m. Magnificent view over Santiago bay. More challenging descent on the other side… truly a beautiful hike not to be missed !

Hiking time: 3 hours
Elevation gain: +230m/-230m

Back at the village we meet a weaver from the village who teaches us the technique of traditional weaving. It sometimes takes a month to weave an aguayo, traditional Andean fabric.

After breakfast, hike along the shores of Lake Titicaca to reach Isla Tortuga. On the way, possibility to visit a small museum that showcases local culture. Beautiful hike that allows you to soak in the magic of the place. The view of the lake from the top of the island is impressive and gives the impression of an endless expanse of water.

Walking time: 3 hours

Return late morning to the community of Santiago de Okola to enjoy a typical lunch.

Return by private vehicle to La Paz.

Morning departure for the Laguna Khotia. Meeting with our muleteers team. From Laguna Khotia, the route to Laguna Chiarkhota is the most well-known in the Royal Cordillera.

From Laguna Khotia, the route to Laguna Chiarkhota is the most well-known in the Royal Cordillera. We start the day heading due south along the mountainside. We arrive at the Paso Contador pass (4760 m) which offers a beautiful view over a wide valley. Here we can observe a large lake named Alka Khota near the old Palcoco mine. We then descend into the valley, cross a semi-marshy area, near laguna Surakhota (4410 m) and continue southeast. We then need to climb along the mountainside before reaching laguna Ajwani ("lake of birds").

Departure: 10:00
Walking time: 5 hours
Elevation gain/loss: +550m/-385m

The Ajwani Lagoon is a beautiful lake where many ducks live. The place is very beautiful and peaceful. We start the day walking towards the southeast along the mountainside. We still have beautiful views of Ajawani Lake before passing into the next valley. We then reach the Milluni Pass located at 4910m altitude before descending to the Sistaña Lagoon (4670m altitude). From the pass, we can observe the Huayna Potosi and its famous west face. We continue towards the southeast. We climb a second pass, the Janchallani Pass located at 4885m altitude. We finally discover the Condoriri massif, one of the most beautiful glaciers in the Cordillera. We end this day by descending to the Jurikhota Lagoon (4700m altitude) nestled in a deep valley.

Departure: 9:00 AM
Walking time: 4 hours
Elevation gain: +530m/-445m

The Head and Left Wing of the Condor overlook the lake. We can make out the path that runs along the lagoon on the left and climbs up through the moraine to the foot of the glacier. The views are magnificent! Tomorrow's day promises to be splendid!

We start this day by walking along the lake, heading northeast, along its right bank to reach the moraine. Then we climb up the moraine to the Laguna Congelada (4880 m). The place is simply splendid. The Condoriri glacier ends its course in its turquoise waters. The vertical walls of the Left Wing and the Condor's Head appear frightening to us from our trail.

After a break, we then head southeast to climb among the rocks on our right towards the pass. The climb is quite steep and sometimes requires the help of your hands and a lot of caution. We arrive at the Austria Pass (5140 m). If we still have some strength left, it is recommended to make a detour to the Austria Peak (5300 m) before dropping into the next valley. This is the peak that dominates the pass on our right and faces Condoriri. You must tackle a steep climb in a scree field, but the effort is truly worth it. This peak is a true viewpoint over Condoriri. The views are breathtaking over the glacial massif. All that's left is to descend southeast from the pass to reach the Laguna Chiarkhota (4680 m), base camp for Condoriri and Pequeño Alpamayo.

Departure: 9:00 AM
Walking time: 5 hours
Elevation gain: +480m/-500m

Ascent without technical difficulties except for the final slope from Pic Tarija (AD+/II). Departure at night (around 3am). We walk to the bottom of the valley (1 hour) to reach the glacier located at 4805m altitude. The climb starts steadily for a good hour on the dome up to a col (5245 m altitude) located above the bergschrund. Steeper ascent to Pic Tarija (5320m altitude) (2h30 to 3h00 from base camp). The view is splendid on the summit ridge. We descend a rocky section (approximately 50m) before climbing the impressive final slope (50/55º). 5 to 7 hours of ascent from base camp. 3 hours of descent to camp by the same route.

Departure: 3am
Walking time: 8 to 10 hours
Elevation gain: +935m/-935m

We gently descend to Rinconada.

Departure: 8:00 AM
Walking time: 1 hour
Elevation gain: +30m/-205m

Then we leave by 4x4 vehicle to laguna Khotia. Then we continue northeast to the laguna Janq'u Quta (4715m alt.) located at the foot of the Paso Mullu. We set up camp on the shore of the lagoon.

Normally to carry out the ascent of Janq'u Uyu, you have to sleep a little higher, around 4900m altitude, at a pass. The latter is very windy, it is preferable to sleep lower and go up by vehicle during the night to reach this pass.

Afternoon: acclimatization walk. The vehicle takes us up in 30 minutes to the foot of the Cerro Wila Lluxita. This massif, still glaciated but not for much longer, divides the valley in two: the Paso Mullu on one side which descends towards the Mina Fabulosa to the southeast and another pass further to the northwest which joins the tropical slope of the Cordillère and the massifs of Las Tres Marias and Negruni. The vehicle drops us off around 4960m altitude. Steep climb through the rocks to the glacier. We walk peacefully along the ridges oriented west-east by the glacier to reach the summit of Cerro Wila Lluxita which peaks at 5245m. Beautiful view to the northwest on the Janq'u Uyu, objective for tomorrow, and on the impressive Janq'u Laya. Further to the southeast, it is the glacier of Mullu Apachita that unfolds.

Walking time: 2 hours
Elevation gain: +285m/-285m

Departure around 4 a.m. by vehicle to reach in half an hour the famous windy pass located at nearly 5000m altitude.

Today's ascent presents no technical difficulty for the glacial section and has a few technical and exposed passages on the rocky section (PD/I and IV/V on rock).

We head northwest. The approach walk is tricky through rocky chaos until we reach the glacier edge, which we attain in 1h30. Then the climb is very easy, still northwest, on the glacial dome with its nice rounded shapes. We reach the summit in 3h30 of walking from the start. This summit presents no technical difficulty and the slopes are very gentle (35º/40º maximum). The peak of Janq'u Uyu is perched on a splendid cornice overlooking the ridges of this glacial massif towards the northwest. The view is magnificent over the vertiginous walls of Chachacomani, Cerro Jakocire and Imasiña to the northwest, and over Huayna Potosi further to the southeast. The southwest face of Janq'u Laya is also impressive from the summit.

We then have the choice between descending by the same route and returning to sleep at laguna Janq'u Quta, or continuing along the ridges towards the northwest and descending into the valley towards the southwest to sleep at laguna Leche Khota. It will take us two hours to cross these sharp and sometimes exposed ridges. We will also have to tackle a technical and steep rocky passage. Then we descend smoothly onto the glacier towards the southwest at the foot of Jisk'a Pata peak in one additional hour. All that's left is to continue along the hillside to the beautiful laguna Leche Khota nestled at the foot of Jach'a Pata peak. Idyllic campsite on the shore of the turquoise waters of the lake.

Departure: 4:00 a.m.
Walking time: 8 to 9 hours
Elevation gain: +690m/-550m

Ascent without technical difficulties for the glacial section and some technical and exposed passages on the rocky section (PD/II and IV/V on rock).

We head due west into the rocks, from Laguna Leche Khota. We first reach a plateau that overlooks the glacial valley and will lead us to the edge of the glacier in less than two hours, at around 5310m altitude. From there, we climb gently towards a huge glacial plateau that separates Janq'u Uyu from Chachacomani. The ridges of Janq'u Uyu appear behind us at sunrise. We then arrive at a first summit around 5455m altitude. The view is breathtaking for 360º. To the north, the glacial massif will lead us to the impressive ridges of Cerro Umasiña. We continue our route along a ridge line. After a second summit, located at 5505m altitude, we must pass an exposed rocky passage. Once the difficulty is overcome, we head towards a glacial valley (5410m) before climbing up to our final pass, located at 5600m at the foot of the Umasiña ridges.

From there, we can choose to descend by glacier to the Chachacomani valley and its base camp. The other option is to haul ourselves onto the ridges of Umasiña and follow them to descend above the Chachacomani base camp. Beware, this variant is exposed and engaging on the rocky ridges.

Departure: 4:00 AM
Walking time: 10 to 11 hours
Elevation gain: +800m/-1360m

Option for those who do not wish to traverse the glacier: make the detour by vehicle with the cook and climb back to the Chachacomani base camp via Cruz Pampa.

From the base camp, we head northwest towards the perpendicular valley. We quickly gain altitude. We arrive in a beautiful cirque crossed by a stream (4700m). We continue to the bottom of the valley around 4775m before climbing a steep slope due north. We then tackle this final ascent through rocky terrain. We arrive at the edge of the glacier. The location is splendid for setting up camp (5130m).

Departure: 9:00 AM
Hiking time: 3 to 4 hours
Elevation gain: +705m/-45m

Ascent without technical difficulties but quite challenging (PD/III).

Departure in the night (around 1 am). From the high camp, we set foot on the glacier. The progression is steady heading northeast over a gigantic crevassed plateau. We must find the best path among the enormous crevasses to reach the foot of the Chachacomani ridges. We then set foot on the crests and follow them due east to reach the main summit (6074m). The slopes become sometimes slightly steeper, but never exceeding 45º. The view from the summit ridge is breathtaking from north to south of the Cordillera.

The descent is easily accomplished by the same route. Return to base camp in the afternoon. 5 to 6 hours of climbing from high camp. Descent to high camp (2h). Return to base camp (2h). Night at base camp.

Departure: 1:00 am
Hiking time: 9 to 10 hours
Elevation gain: +990m/-1650m

Return to the village of Cruz Pampa.

Departure 8:00 AM
Walking time: 2 hours
Elevation gain: +80m/-130m

Return by private vehicle to La Paz.

Departure for the small village of Pinaya (3880m alt.) at the foot of the Illimani Massif. Meeting with the team of muleteers and porters.

Peaceful ascent to Puente Roto, base camp of Illimani.

Hiking time: 2 to 3 hours
Elevation gain: +590m

Climbing on the flanks of Illimani. Ascent to the Condors' Nest (5500m alt.) by a long steep rocky ridge. We start with a pleasant, well-marked path, skirting the north and central peaks of Illimani before crossing a plateau crisscrossed with streams then a curious orange moraine ! We walk in the company of porters, who go up and down tirelessly between base camp and high camp. A few more zigzags and we set foot on a rocky ridge at 4950m.

The rest is delicate and requires attention. Long ascent, steep in places, alternating rocky sections where you need to use your hands and short trails, until reaching the Nido de los Condores, the Condors' Nest. Camp on the edge of the glacier.

Departure: 9:00am
Walking time: 4 to 5 hours
Elevation gain: +1000m

A somewhat technical and engaging ascent (AD+/IV).

Departure in the night around 1 am. The climb is progressive along the snowy ridge on fairly steep slopes (45º/50º). It presents no technical difficulty, but is very demanding. The face is moreover on the western slope. Even at sunrise, the sun will remain hidden behind the summit ridges. You must therefore be very well equipped to face intense cold. Around 6300 meters altitude, we arrive on a glacial plateau situated between the central peak and the south peak. After a well-deserved break in the sun this time, we turn right to follow the summit ridge, heading south-east. The final ascent is steep (55º) before finally reaching the summit (6439m alt.). Arrival on the long summit ridge. 7 to 8 hours of climbing from Condor's Nest.

Descent to Puente Roto base camp (approximately 5 to 6 hours)

Departure: 1:00 am
Walking time: 12 to 13 hours
Elevation gain: +970m/-1970m

Descent to the village of Pinaya, our last hike of the circuit.

Departure: 10:00am
Hiking time: 2 hours
Elevation change: -590m

Return by private vehicle to La Paz.