Illimani dominates the horizon of the world's highest capital, La Paz. Visible from hundreds of kilometers away, draped in its white mantle, this imposing massif represents a genuine challenge for the most intrepid adventurers.

History

The first attempted ascent of Illimani dates back to 1877, when JC Ocampo, Charles Wiener, and J. Grumkow, while failing to reach the main summit, successfully climbed a southeastern sub-peak they named "Pic de Paris." The first to reach Illimani's apex were British explorer William Martin Conway and Italian guides L. Pellissier and JA Maquignaz in 1898. During their southeastern ascent, they discovered a piece of Aymara rope at over 6,000m altitude—evidence that doesn't rule out a prior indigenous ascension.

Today, the most common route follows the western ridge, a path first undertaken by Germans W. Kühn, R. Boetcher, and F. Fritz in 1940. This route takes four days. In July 2010, Bolivian resident Robert Rauch and German climber Florian Hill pioneered a new trail on Illimani's south face, completing much of the 1,700m elevation gain in approximately 21 hours.

Accidents on Mount Illimani

In August 1973, renowned Bolivian climber Ernesto Sánchez and French alpinist Pierre Dedieu perished attempting to summit Illimani. On January 1, 1985, Eastern Air Flight 980 crashed on the mountain. Another climbing accident occurred on June 7, 2003, claiming the lives of American military personnel Kenneth R. Miller and Paul Bruce Kappelman, along with their Bolivian guide Vincente Perez. On May 2, 2017, a German climber died in an avalanche.

Illimani Today

Rising to 6,438m, it is Bolivia's second-highest summit, after Nevado Sajama. A massive, snow-capped mountain that captivates climbers worldwide, Nevado Illimani towers above the entire Royal Cordillera. For Bolivians, particularly La Paz residents, it is a sacred mountain, its name meaning "Golden Eagle."

Illimani has four peaks: Pico del Indio (6,109m), Pico Central (6,362m), Pico Norte (6,403m), and Pico Sur (6,438m). Three are visible from La Paz city. The mountain's highest point lies to the south. A complete summit traverse is possible with adequate physical and mental preparation for the distance involved.

The standard Illimani climbing route lies on the western flank, departing from the Condor's Nest. It's a relatively straightforward and accessible path, though acclimatization to altitude and climate remains essential for an optimal experience. Beyond its length, which may deter some, the trek is rewarding, offering unparalleled views of crevasses throughout. The sole technical section occurs at the bergschrund.

From La Paz, two approaches to Illimani's western flank exist: via Pinaya or through Cohoni. Both routes lead to Puente Roto, where base camp is established.

Via Pinaya

This is the most popular route. Leaving La Paz, you can reach the small rural village of Pinaya by vehicle in three to four hours, arriving at this settlement clinging to Illimani's slopes at 3,700m elevation. Road difficulty and distance make this journey fairly costly. In Pinaya, local herders rent donkeys to visitors to help reach the valley floor at Puente Roto, situated at 4,400m—a hike of roughly four hours.

From Puente Roto, walk about twenty minutes toward the western face to reach the flat meadow where base camp is typically established. Above the meadow, a miners' trail leads up a scree slope connecting to the rocky ridge descending from Pico Sur. Follow the ridge to reach the Condor's Nest at 5,450m.

Via Cohoni

In La Paz, catch a minibus to Cohoni from the San Pedro neighborhood, along Calle Boqueron or Calle Luis Lara—a journey of roughly five hours. From Cohoni, take the trail on Illimani's western side to the Huascanasca River, then to Puente Roto.

When to Climb Illimani?

The best period to climb Illimani encompasses June, July, and August.